My consoles

Last entries: November 2016

[French SECAM] Nintendo Entertainment System (without cables, dead?)
2x [PAL] NES
2x [NTSC/J] Famicom

[Region free] NES clone

[PAL] Super NES
[PAL] Super NES (damaged case)
[NTSC/J] Super Famicom

3x [PAL] Nintendo64 (Dark Gray/Black)

[PAL] GameCube (DOL-001, Indigo)
[PAL] GameCube (DOL-001, Platinum)

2 x [PAL] Wii (White)

[PAL] Wii U (Black)

2 x [EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, Cool Blue)
[EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, Deep Black)
[EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, Vibrant Yellow)
[EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, Radiant Red)
[EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, High Tech Transparent)
[EU] Gameboy (PIL DMG, Gorgeous Green)
5x [EU] Gameboy (Classic DMG, Off-white)
[EU] Gameboy (Classic DMG, Off-white – backlit)
[EU] Gameboy (Classic DMG, now BMO BOY edition)
[EU] Gameboy (Custom made DMG – half blue, half yellow)

[EU] Gameboy Pocket (Silver w/ black border)
[EU] Gameboy Pocket (Yellow)
[JP] Gameboy Pocket (Off-white – In the style of the original Game Boy with Purple buttons)

[JP] Gameboy Light (Gold)

[EU] Gameboy Color (Dandelion – yellow)
[EU] Gameboy Color (Kiwi – neon green)
[EU] Gameboy Color (Teal)
[EU] Gameboy Color (Grape – purple)
[Region Free] GB Boy Colour (Transparent blue)

[EU] Gameboy Advance (Glacier – clear blue)
[EU] Gameboy Advance (Glacier – clear blue) -> now modded with AGS-101 screen and put into a new orange shell
[EU] Gameboy Advance SP (AGS-001, Pearl blue)
[EU] Gameboy Advance SP (AGS-001, Pearl pink)
[EU] Gameboy Advance SP (AGS-101, Surf blue)
[EU] Gameboy Micro (Grey)
[EU] Gameboy Micro (Blue)

[EU] DS (Titanium)
[EU] DS Lite (Smart Black)
[EU] DS Lite (White)
[EU] DSi (Matte White)

[EU] 3DS XL (Blue + Black)
[EU] 2DS (White + Red)
[EU] 2DS (Black + Blue – Broken)

[EU] Pokémon Mini (Smoochum Purple)
[US] Pokémon Mini (Chikorita Green)

[PAL] Master System
2 x [PAL] Master System II

[PAL] Mega Drive (widened slot, US/JPN – 50/60Hz modded, dead?)
[PAL] Mega Drive II (widened slot)
[PAL] Mega Drive II (widened slot, messed up)

[NTSC/J] Dreamcast (VA0 model)

[EU] GameGear
[EU] GameGear (LED backlight mod, new caps, some dead pixels)
[US] GameGear (LED backlight mod, new caps)

[NTSC/U] Nomad (widened slot)

[PAL] PlayStation (SCPH-7502)
[PAL] PsOne (SCPH-102)

2x [PAL] PlayStation 2 (SCPH-30004)

[JP] PSP (1000, piano black)

[PAL] XBOX (ver. 1.6 – softmodded using Rocky5’s method)

[PAL] XBOX360 Elite (120GB)


[JP] Neo Geo Pocket Color (Platinum Blue)

2 responses

3 01 2017

Hello djlooka! I have read your post here:
I recently built a RGB cable for the Mega Drive I. I started learning about RGB adapters about a month ago, and by seeing your messages, I have noticed you had very little knowledge about this. That made you take several wrong decisions.

You had a big confusion with Composite signal. Usually, RGB uses a signal for vertical syncronisation and another signal for horizontal sincronisation. However, these are only used by the VGA cable in computers. When displaying RGB on TV, syncronisation is transfered in a single signal, which is pin 20 in SCART. Actually, what we’re doing here is to use the syncronisation data from composite video, which is not weird at all. Without that data, the screen will look like a couple of diagonal bars scrolling down. It’s what you were seeing when you said this: “If I plugged the scart on my tv I saw a very distorted picture, moving across the screen”.

In order to be able to display RGB video on the TV, we must send a voltage diferential to pin 16. Otherwise, the TV will keep trying to receive composite video from the SCART cable. But many CRT TVs were designed so that when RGB mode is activated, all channels switch to RGB, and they share the same RGB input. That’s why you said this: “The weird thing was that this signal was “overwriting” every other channel!”. However, since syncronisation is taken from the composite video, all channels will look bad, except the AV channel the SCART cable is connected to, because this is the only channel which receives the right composite syncronisation data. Oppositely to RGB, composite video is never shared to the other channels.

If I didn’t understand bad, on your first try, you didn’t connect pin 20 to composite video, and then you got the syncronisation from the RF video. If this is really how it was, you were just going against yourself by looking down on the composite signal.

So, this scheme is already perfect. In fact, it’s the one I used:

Regarding your broken Mega Drive, all I know is that the most damaging thing to it is short-circuiting the +5 V signal with GND. It shall be lethal if repeated multiple or prolonged times. Besides that, knowing that you made several changes to the original design of the adapter (misguided by your little knowledge), I guess you might have commited a similar error.

I’m sorry that I can’t help you repair it. That goes beyond the knowledge about video signals.

Happy new year!

4 01 2017

Hi magiblot1,
What a blast from the past!
You’re completely right: I had no idea what I was doing at the time, in fact it was my very first attempt at soldering anything 🙂
I still have that poor MegaDrive somewhere, and some day I might even try to fix it.

Take care,

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